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Pattern and tailoring of women's trousers

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How to sew pants

Pants have been an important item in the basic wardrobe of any woman for over a century. This is a pretty wear-resistant thing that can be combined with a lot of other clothes. And this greatly expands the set of images for everyday work and special occasions.

Even if you have just begun to master the intricacies of sewing and have never been mistaken for women's or men's trousers, it will be quite simple to fill this gap with detailed instructions.

Tips before sewing

Sewing pants with your own hands is quite simple, if you immediately decide on a style that is in harmony with the type of figure.

Modern fashion has a wide range of interesting styles. For the first time, it is recommended to focus on the classic, straight type of trousers without pockets. They are suitable for all types of figures, so any seamstress will be able to replenish his wardrobe with his own original model. According to this modeling method, other types are possible.

Modeling based on a classic trouser pattern

  • Tight pants with arrows.
  • Jeans with a low waist.
  • Flared pants.
  • Pants-pipes.
  • Trousers.
  • Boyfriends

The choice of fabric is the most important step before the main work of creating trousers, since the level of sewing complexity will depend on the material. The process also takes into account the season of the planned socks.

There is a conditional division of materials into two types: spring / summer and autumn / winter. For the first type, light materials are suitable: linen, silk, cotton fabrics. For winter and autumn, it is preferable to take wool and half-woolen.

Also, the fabric often dictates and determines the style. For example, corduroy pants are often used for sportswear, and at formal events classic noble natural materials (tweed, cashmere, angora) will be more appropriate.

The amount of fabric needed to create trousers depends on two main criteria:

  • clothing size
  • selected style.

There is also some advice when buying fabric. In order not to be mistaken, add 25-30 cm to one length of the product per treatment. Processing costs add up to the number of finishing fragments (pockets, belts, decor elements). It is customary to buy fabric lining trousers equal to one length of the product.

Necessary measurements

  • Waist circumference.
  • Hip circumference.
  • Seat height.
  • Thigh height.
  • Desired product length.

Take measurements with a measuring tape. All measurements, except seat height, are made while standing. The height of the seat is determined in a sitting position, taken from the surface of a chair or chair to the waist.

Tailoring

For work, it is permissible to use an already formed drawing or take your purchased trousers and model a new product on them. We developed a master class in which trousers are sewn according to the finished pattern. However, for convenience, we provide a pattern option for normal work with the drawing.

Working process

  1. Fold the old trousers in half along the line between the legs so that the front of the legs are on the outside.
  2. Put them on paper. Circle the pants and add about 2 cm around the created figure.
  3. Add another 1 cm to the increments for the seams at the waist and at the bottom of the product at the feet.
  4. Fold the trousers so that the backs of the legs are on top.
  5. Circle them again and add seam allowances.
  6. On the paper should be two pairs of different drawings of pants. Cut them out.
  7. Take the fabric and cut it into two halves.
  8. Fold each in half, attach patterns and cut out fragments of trousers. You should get a pair of identical front parts and a pair of rear ones.
  9. Use a crayon or highlighter to mark the places where the seams should pass (2 cm on the sides, 3 cm near the waist and feet).
  10. Take both fragments, fold them face down and align along the long.
  11. Lock the edges with French pins and sew.
  12. Expand the leg, go stitching on the front side.
  13. Turn inside out, lock the other edge and sew again.
  14. Do not stitch the fabric between the legs. At this point, there will then be a seam fork.
  15. Create and sew a second leg on the other fragments of the pattern.
  16. Turn out one leg, and let the other be on the wrong side. Place the leg with the front side inward of the other, align and fasten with pins. Sew a fork in the seam. Turn the trousers inside out. Make sure that the inner seam has no tears or excess thread.

  • The turn is to create a belt and process the bottom of the product. Fold the fabric whose length you took into account when modeling the patterns (3 cm at the waist and feet). If you notice that the trousers are too long or too short, adjust the size at the bottom.
  • The belt is sewn first. In the middle, leave a 2-3 cm hole for the elastic strip. After the bottom of each leg is hemmed with a hem seam.
  • Cut a piece from the elastic tape. It should be equal to the waist circumference minus 1 cm to keep the pants in place.
  • Take a regular pin and attach it to the elastic. Insert a pin into the hole and gently pull the elastic through the belt. To do this, move the pin in small sections along the waistline. When done, join the two ends of the elastic strip together and hide them in the slots.
  • After that, you can either sew it up or leave it open to adjust the girth, if suddenly the pants are too loose.
  • This option of modeling and sewing pants is the simplest and recommended for beginners in sewing. You can also create men's trousers and children's pants.
  • How to sew women's pants with your own hands

    To increase the speed of sewing clothes, you need to prepare in advance for this process. Tools you may need:

    • sewing machine with spare interchangeable needles,
    • threads
    • scissors,
    • chalk or washable felt-tip pen for cutting fabric,
    • sheets of paper (preferably graph paper) to build patterns, pencil,
    • meter wooden ruler,
    • flexible measuring tape
    • pattern
    • iron.

    It is also necessary to prepare material for potential trousers. It is advisable for one thing to use only one type of fabric, because different types can react in their own way to washing, ironing, etc.

    Before sewing, the material must be washed and dried. This is done in order to get rid of natural molting and possible shrinkage.

    IMPORTANT! In order for the fabric to be obedient, it should be “compacted”. To do this, rub the cloth abundantly with a simple solid soap and squeeze out the remaining liquid a little without rinsing. Next - dry and start cutting. After finishing work, wash again with double rinse. If you follow these rules, the resulting thing will not give strong shrinkage and will be with a perfect seam.

    The process of creating any new thing is divided into several stages:

    1. Design and construction patterns.
    2. Carrying out the cutting of material and joining of components.
    3. Fit.
    4. Final tailoring.

    How to sew perfect fit women's pants

    For an ideal fit of sewn trousers, it is necessary to take measurements accurately and in accordance with all the rules, as well as clearly follow the instructions for constructing a pattern.

    It is necessary to take into account the features of the human figure, because for full women, a special style of things is suitable. The quality of raw materials for making new clothes plays a very important role, because the properties of a thing depend on the type of fabric. The greater the advantages a material has, the more functional and high-quality clothing will be.

    Building patterns takes up most of the entire process. The success of the final result depends on it. Drawing patterns are applied to plain paper. First draw the basics of the pattern, and then - the classic style of women's trousers.

    ON A NOTE! The pattern is conveniently applied to a cellophane sheet, which can be purchased at a hardware store. It is very convenient and practical, because the life of this material is high!

    We build a basic pattern and sew pants

    How to sew trousers? Many beginners dressmakers cautiously take on the tailoring of such a product. In fairness, it must be said that it is certainly more difficult to sew trousers than, for example, a skirt. However, the basis of perfectly fitting trousers is the exact pattern. It is with her that we suggest you start.

    Accurate measurements are half the success!

    In order for the trousers to fit perfectly on the figure, it is necessary to build a basic pattern of women's trousers by your own standards. Measurements should be taken on naked body, or on corrective underwear. Measurements should be made by tightly wrapping the tape around the body, preferably in underwear.
    FROM - measure by the thinnest place of the body
    ABOUT - measured by the protruding points of the buttocks, taking into account all the bulges (area "breeches"), the maximum volume of hips
    DB - measured on the side from the waistline to the floor
    Sun - measured while sitting on a chair - from the waistline a centimeter tape is lowered vertically to the surface of the seat

    We suggest you read the detailed instructions for taking measurements: How to take measurements
    After you build a pattern - the basis of trousers, choose the model you like from those presented on our website, model and sew!

    We take measurements for a cut of women's trousers

    It is advisable to take the correct measurements in underwear using a centimeter flexible tape. This will maximize the exclusion of measurement errors, which is necessary for the best result. Keep the tape out in numbers.

    During this process, it is necessary to stand straight, trying not to hunch your back.

    ON A NOTE! Before completing the measurement work for greater accuracy at the waist, you can tie a small rope. With the help of this technique lines of measurements will be clearly visible.

    How to take measurements

    When taking measurements, grasp the desired circumference is not tight, but not wide. A tight fit of the tape to the body with the possibility of its sliding is required.

    To sew women's trousers, you need to measure the following values:

    • Semicircles of the waist and hips. The waist is measured at the narrowest point (it is located above the navel). Hips - at the widest in the buttocks. The result obtained by both standards is divided into two.

    ON A NOTE! To accept all the features of the figure, you can define a segment in the breeches. This is the maximum bulge length on the hips. If it will be more than calculated on the buttocks, to calculate the pattern, you should take this result.

    • Knee length. This is the distance from the waist to the knee of the model. The measure is removed from the front.
    • The length is lateral. The distance from the waist to the lower end of the leg. Measured from the side, a centimeter tape fits snugly at the waist and hip.
    • Bottom width. The desired width of the trousers is taken into account based on the style of the product.
    • Half knee circumference. Measured parallel to the floor, the measure is divided in half.
    • Hip circumference. This is the largest upper part of the leg, which is located below the inguinal region.
    • The circumference of the lower leg. The maximum width of the calf muscle, which is below the knee, is measured horizontally.
    • Ankle girth. Horizontal measurement.
    • Seat height. This measurement is carried out while sitting. The distance from the waist to the surface of the seat is taken into account. A vertical measurement that is perpendicular to the floor.

    Building a basic pattern of trousers

    Measurements (SIZE 46) 1/2 1/4
    OT (Waist circumference) - 76 cm 38 19
    OB (thigh circumference) - 100 cm 50 25
    ШН (Bottom Width) - 42 cm 21 10.5
    DB (Side Length) - 106 cm
    Sun (Seat Height) - 26.5 cm
    LH (Pitch: DB minus Sun) - 79.5 cm
    VK (Knee Height: 1/2 LH minus 1/10 LH) - 31.8 cm
    Shppb (Width of the front half of the trousers: 1/4 RP -1 cm) - 24 cm
    Shzpb (Width of the back half of the trousers: 1/4 RP + 1cm + 0-1 cm increase in freedom of fitting) - 26 cm
    1/4 SHZPB = 26: 4 = 6.5 cm

    What fabrics are used when sewing trousers?

    Almost all fabrics with a small addition of elastane are suitable for trousers. Natural wool, linen, crepe, satin, etc. are ideal. Before cutting, be sure to decat the fabric - iron with steam. Some types of fabrics can shrink up to 10%. Read our detailed recommendations for working with different types of fabrics.

    Ready-made trouser patterns

    After building the basic pattern, you can proceed to modeling. This is a very creative process, and you need to approach it with inspiration! Choose the model of trousers that you like - use the ready-made model solutions presented on our website or model the style of trousers yourself.

    You will find these and many other models under the heading Patterns of women's trousers.

    Tailoring workshops

    In order for your products to be sewn efficiently, we have prepared step-by-step master classes on the most popular sewing operations that are used when sewing trousers - processing of side and welt pockets, belts, loops, types of processing of seam allowances, hemings and much more you will find in the Master- section classes

    Sew beautiful things and wear them with pleasure!

    Basic designation of measurements on the pattern

    A pattern drawing is a pattern, following which any fashionable thing can be made from a piece of ordinary fabric. In this figure, the main notation of the measurements and their values ​​are clearly and concisely.

    The following abbreviations are used for sewing trousers:

    1. St - Semicircle of the waist.
    2. Sat - Hip semicircle.
    3. DBK - The length of the trousers to the knee.
    4. DB - Side length.
    5. Шн - The lower width of the trousers.
    6. Sk - Half knee circumference.
    7. Sun - Seat height.
    8. Fri - Increase at the waist (for free relief).
    9. Pb - The increase in hips Pt and Pb depends on the individual characteristics of the human body and on the style of the trousers. On the average figure is allowed: Pb = 1 cm, Pb = 0.

    How to build a basis for a pattern of women's trousers step by step

    The basis of the female trouser pattern is two correctly drawn figures. For their accurate calculation, all taken measurements are transferred to a sheet of paper. Stages of drawing construction:

    • We measure the length on paper based on the scale of the picture.
    • We make the notation in width for greater convenience.
    • We indicate additional designations that are necessary for the correct creation of trousers.

    For example, we use the calculations indicated in centimeters:

    Designing the front half of the base for women's trousers

    Calculate the width of the front half of the pants according to the formula:

    Shppb = 1/4 * Hip circumference-1 centimeter = 1/4 * 108-1 = 26

    Width of back half of trousers:

    Shzpb = 1/4 * Hip circumference + Pb + Fri = 27

    1. For the correct construction of the pattern, it is required to draw two perpendicular lines, where O is the point of their intersection. From it you need to postpone the segment OA = Shppb = 26.
    2. From the same point we draw a vertical segment OV = Vs = 27.6, perpendicular to ShPb. There we measure OK = DBc = 59 and OH1 = DB = 103.
    3. From point B up, measure BB1 ​​= 1/10 * Sat + 3 = 8.4
    4. We draw horizontal perpendicular lines from points B, B1, K, H1.
    5. From point A, lower the line down to the line leaving B. The points of intersection B2, C are obtained.
    6. Section B2B3 = 1/10 * Sat + 1 = 6.4
    7. B1B3 must be divided into two equal parts, from which the point B4 is obtained.
    8. The dividing line of the arrow of the trousers is drawn through this point. Formed A2, B1.
    9. From point B1 on both sides along the line you need to measure the segments: Н1Н3 = Н1Н2 = 1 / 4Шн-1 = 5.
    10. Draw segments B1H2, B3H3. From this, points B0, C1, K2, K3 are obtained.
    11. From B2 measure 0.5.
    12. Measure point C1 = C2 up vertically in a straight line. Draw the segment C1C2.
    13. A1A3 is approximately equal to 1. Draw a rounded line from A1 to C1C2. Connect A3 and C1 using a pattern.

    The front base is ready.

    Design the back half of the base of women's trousers

    After drawing the front of the trousers, the back is drawn.

    • From B4 you need to measure 1 cm. The result is a segment B4B5 = 1 (this is necessary to divert the arrow of the back half of the trousers). Draw a B5K1 thin line.
    • From B5, take B6 to the right, where B5B6 = 1/4 * Shzpb = 6.75.
    • From B0, put 4 cm up the picture.

    ON A NOTE! On pants for figures with magnificent buttocks, this coefficient will be 3, with the structure of the body with flat buttocks - 5.

    • Cross G and B6. From B6 draw a perpendicular to GW6 up and down.
    • Make a segment G1G2 = Shzpb = 27.
    • Draw a line G1G2 parallel to V6G so that G2 are on segments N.

    ON A NOTE! When designing and drawing patterns, it is convenient to use a measuring triangle.

    • Create point G3, where V5G2 = V5G3.
    • Draw a point K4 and K5, laying 2 cm from the line of the side and step seams. Form a segment K5G3.
    • Draw a line from K4 through G2 to the waist - point T.
    • Draw T1, where K1T1 = K1T, with T1 lying on a straight point B6.
    • Connect the segment TT1. From T1 measure 0.5 and get a segment of T2B6.

    This part is also ready. It remains only to transfer them to the fabric and cut.

    Pattern of classic women's trousers

    To build a pattern of classic women's trousers, you need to calculate the tucks of the back and front halves and correctly draw the lines of the middle seam for further work with the material.

    Tuck the front half.

    1. Measure А3А4 = 1/4 * Waist circumference + 2 (for tuck) + 0.5 (for fit) = 23.
    2. A4 raise by 0.5 and connect the resulting curved segment with a pattern.
    3. Divide the length between A2 and 0.5 equally, draw a perpendicular to the line of points B.
    4. Make a tuck line with a depth of 10 and a width of 0.5.

    Tuck in the back half.

    1. T2T3 = 1/4 * Waist circumference + 3 (tuck in the back half) +0.5 (for a good fit) = 24.
    2. DB = 103, as in the front.
    3. T2T3 is divided equally. The tuck will be 13 cm long and 2 to 3 cm wide. It will be drawn perpendicular to the waist.
    4. K5G4 = C1S3-0.5
    5. Using the pattern to connect V6G4. This will be the middle seam line.

    We make cutting fabric

    For convenience, formed patterns need to be cut out with scissors from sheets of paper, using a chalk or washable felt-tip pen. На ткань все детали распределяются начиная с самой большой, заканчивая меньшей.

    Стачиваем детали

    После распределения составных частей, нужно отметить все боковые контрольные точки рисунка для правильного проведения линий чертежа. The line width should be one or two millimeters.

    It is necessary to take into account seam allowances, which depend on the quality of the material.

    IMPORTANT! If the threads fall abundantly from the cut edge, then - to retreat more (about 3-4 cm).

    After double-checking each size separately, you need to cut out all the components.

    We carry out the fit

    In order to verify the correct size of the trousers, the composite front and rear parts are fixed with sewing pins and compared with the proportions of the model. At this stage, error correction is carried out, if any error was made, the convenience of landing is taken into account.

    Only after making sure that the measurements are correct, is the assembly of parts and sewing of the product carried out.

    Final assembly of parts

    Instructions for the proper sewing of trousers:

    1. Sew tucks.
    2. If there are pockets, you need to grind them (connect on one side).
    3. Sew and overcast side sections.
    4. Sew internal slices.
    5. Sew the seam of the seat.
    6. Overlock existing fastener.
    7. Stitch the belt and braid.
    8. Tighten the trouser leg allowances and work them up.
    9. If there are buttons - sew on.

    Now you can wear your own hand-made pants.

    Important tips for high-quality tailoring of women's trousers

    For smooth operation, consider the following tips:

    • for sewing classic women's trousers, you need to choose a dense, high-quality fabric that can tolerate systematic ironing (for example, cashmere or cloth),
    • always use decating before work (washing and drying the material),
    • when connecting the components, it is advisable to use an iron to smooth the seams,
    • after finishing work with the sewing machine, you need to iron the trousers again, not forgetting the front arrow.

    If you follow all the instructions completely, you will get excellent classic women's pants with a perfect fit! Good luck in your work!

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