There are several types of surfboards. Each board has its own characteristics and characteristics:
- “Malibu” is the name of the blackboard. Its length can be from 7 to 9.5 feet. This is a wide board with a rounded nose. It is very convenient for a beginner, reliable and stable. When transporting is not as convenient as a shortboard.
- "Longboard" - looks like a "malibu." This board is already 9 to 12 feet long. It is more maneuverable because it is narrower and thinner.
- For more experienced surfers - a board "fanboard".
- For aggressive skating, sharp maneuvers with a change of direction, flying over spray and foam - a short board “shotboard”.
Do not immediately buy yourself a board. Learn to start with the rental, and when you outgrow the student board and decide to purchase, you will need:
- Set of removable fins
- Case for socks and storage
Lish - flexible plastic cord. It is attached to the surfer's leg and to the board, so that when falling, do not miss the board.
Wax - This is a paraffin based grease. It is applied to the glossy surface of the board in the place where the legs will stand. This is done so that the surfer does not slip.
Comb - Devices for the distribution of wax on the board during lubrication, and giving abrasiveness. It is usually sold complete with board shorts.
Helmet needed if the spot is shallow. Sunscreen - for day skating. Wetsuit come in handy if it's cold.
What does the sign of shaka mean
When choosing equipment, pay attention to the following points:
- There must be fasteners in the fin blocks
- The lichen should have a high-quality fastener (Velcro) that will hold it well
- The lish should be slightly longer than the board
What you need to know about waves
Surfer swims in the surf. Surf is a strip that does not belong to the shore, the ocean. In this strip, water and earth mix. To understand the waves, surfers conditionally separate them from left and right. After the start, you need to go to the right side, and to the left - go away from the ridge, which begins to crumble. In addition, it is customary to divide the waves into early (sharply closing) and late (smoothly closing). The strength of a wave is determined by the time (period) that has passed from the collapse of one wave to the collapse of the next. The more seconds there are in a period, the more “wave” is more powerful, that is, more powerful and stronger. Waves, like boards, are measured in feet. The height of the wave is determined from the back (from the ocean). Sometimes, inexperienced surfers are mistaken to see two-meter waves from the shore, and once at the start they understand that the wave is actually four-meter. At the moment of wave formation, a pit is formed in front of it, the depth of which is almost equal to the height of the wave!
To determine which wave you are ready to ride on, just enough once to experience the power of the ocean. Feel the ocean “palm” and its heaviness, and it’s better to wait a while with riding in the “pipes”, because you simply can’t leave them. Be sure to undergo competent instruction and not lose your head. Everything has its time!
Studying at a surf school
First time surfing, of course, is best on the basis of a surf school. So you will be guaranteed knowledge, skills, safety. Monitoring by the instructor is required. It is best to learn to surf in a tropical climate, where the water temperature is comfortable. This will not distract you from the learning process. Typically, training consists of several steps: theory, training to get up on the board, setting the comb and getting used to the board in calm water, going out to the waves. On average, in order to get on the board from scratch and catch a wave, you will need about 10 hours of group classes. The cost of training depends on the chosen place of study and school. On average, it’s 250-300 dollars.
There are no age restrictions for this sport. Both a child and a pensioner can stand on the board. Physical characteristics are certainly important, but often they develop along with skiing techniques. Therefore, you can start at any time.
And how to start a new life for 1300 rubles a day
I ride a surf for 6 years, an average of 200 days a year. For me it is more than a hobby.
I’ll tell you how the learning process is built and how much it costs.
Who is a surfer?
A surfer is a person who can catch the right wave and ride it using his dexterity and special equipment. Some surfers deliberately move to the ocean to combine surfing with work. Some of the surfers begin to work in the same field: they keep equipment rental, create schools and camps.
A surfer should have his own equipment or understanding of which board to rent. He knows how to choose a place and time for skiing. A surfer can predict the behavior of the wave and be in the right place to catch it.
Learning to surf is a long time. For two weeks in the surf camp you can get basic knowledge, but to become a surfer, you will have to make a lot of effort. Surfing is largely about skills, not knowledge, and skills are formed by dozens and even hundreds of hours of training.
6 years I ride a surf on average 200 days a year
How is the training
Beginners in surfing go through two stages of training: foam and lineup.
Foam - this is the preparatory stage. Training takes place in the surf zone, where the wave has already fallen and there is even foam towards the shore. At this stage, learn to catch the foam from the wave, get up on the board and maintain balance.
Lineup - This is a place in the ocean where surfers sit waiting for the wave. On the lineup, the surfer learns to choose suitable waves, catch them and ride along the wall, that is, along the formed inclined part of the wave.
Almost everyone succeeds in surfing at the very first foam lesson. This is a picture of a Bali surf school student.
To ride on your own, in addition to skills, you will need a lot of theoretical knowledge. For example, what kind of boards are and why they are needed, how the ocean works, what is surf etiquette, what criteria determine the place and time for skiing and what to do in extreme situations.
The theory can be learned independently from articles and videos on the Internet. If you know English, it will be easier, because there is more information in English than in Russian.
I advise all newcomers to spend time studying the theory before coming to camp or coming to surf school. The on-site instructor will tell you all the main points, but you will feel more confident if you prepare.
There are two options with practice: try to stand on the board yourself or engage with an instructor. When I started surfing on vacation in Hawaii, I took one two-hour lesson, and the rest of the days I swam. It was swimming, and not skating: there were still not enough skills to skate after one lesson.
When I moved to Bali, I was not limited in time, so I decided to study on my own. It took me three weeks of almost daily independent training to catch the first real wave. In lessons at a surf school, it takes an average of four days.
Here is a picture of a surf school in Bali. This is the second lineup of the student, just her fifth lesson with the instructor:
The position on the board is far from ideal, the shoulders are not fully deployed, the knees look in different directions. But she rides along the wave and does not fall, for the fifth time in the ocean this is a very good result. On the right in the photo you can see how the instructor pushes the student to the wave: without a jolt, the first time to catch the waves is very difficult, most people have strong hands.
To become a surfer, one lesson is not enough. You need to take a course of at least seven lessons. In my experience, during this time you will learn the basics of theory and the basic technique. I recommend taking 2–4 lessons of “foam” for 2 hours each, and the number of lineups - the better, but not less than 6.
Then it will be necessary to continue to train independently.
In Bali, one surfing lesson in a group costs $ 50-60 (3267 - 3920.4 R). For a course of several classes, schools give a discount. Seven surfing lessons cost an average of $ 300 (19,605 R). The price includes equipment rental and photo or video shooting. Photos are not taken as a souvenir, but so that you look at how you are standing on the board and where the waves are. It’s easier to fix mistakes if you see them yourself. It is very important to fix the correct technique during the lessons with the instructor. Well, as a souvenir, the photographs will also remain.
one surf lesson in a group in Bali
Individual lessons are more expensive, but they are more effective. For two hours of class, each student rides 5-7 waves, and in an individual lesson, you can take 10-12. A one-on-one lesson with an instructor in Bali costs from $ 100 (5700 R), and if there are two students, then from $ 150 (8550 R) for two.
At the very beginning of training, buying a board is pointless. Beginners need a special training board - soft-top, it is better to rent it.
Soft tops are large, thicker and more floating than regular boards. They are also a bit sloppy, but it is much easier to keep their balance on them. Soft tops are covered with soft rubber, and their fins are flexible, not sharp - this reduces the likelihood of injuries. During training, sometimes you hit the board. You can cut yourself on the usual, and on the soft top to fight safely.
On the left is a classic longboard, solid and with large stiff fiberglass fins. On the right is a training soft top, it is even shorter than a longboard, but much wider and thicker, covered with soft material, its fins are small and flexible, made of plastic
Prices for rental boards depend on the ski area: the more popular it is, the more expensive. On average, prices in Bali range from $ 5 (290 R) to $ 10 (570 R) in two hours.
When you learn to steadily catch waves on the training board, you can switch to the classic longboard. Rent costs the same, and if you want to buy your own board, then I advise you to start using a used one. In Bali, used boards are sold in groups on Facebook. There are a lot of ads on the surf spots where everyone skates.
Prices for used boards start at $ 300 (17,000 R), but you need to choose very carefully. It happens that the board broke, it was repaired and sold. It’s hard to ride such a board: after repair it weighs more and becomes unbalanced, it is more difficult to take waves on it. Moreover, boards broken in half are very easily broken again in the same place.
minimum worth a new longboard for surfing
A new longboard costs from $ 600 (34 000 R). After six months of regular longboard riding, you can go on a shorter board. The purchase scheme and prices are the same.
At the box office, it’s wise to try different boards in order to understand which one is more convenient for you to ride. Then buy one In Bali, similar boards may differ in price by half. Imported materials are expensive, local ones are cheaper, but the quality is worse. Boards made from local materials break faster
What else will you need
Necessarily need a special sunscreen zinc paste for the face. During surfing, you are in direct sunlight for two hours, which are also reflected from the water.
An ordinary sunscreen, even waterproof, is quickly erased from the face, because after each fall into the water I want to wipe my eyes and nose. "Zinc" is applied in a dense layer and is not washed off, after surfing it has to be washed with napkins.
Such a jar of zinc paste costs $ 10. I have enough for two months of daily use At dawn and sunset, I smear only my nose, and at lunch - my whole face, the skin around my eyes and lips
In warm water, you can ride with a naked torso, but there is a risk of sunburn in the sun and rub your stomach on the board. It is better to buy a special surfer T-shirt - lycra. Such T-shirts are sold in all surfer shops and cost from $ 50 (2850 R). Beautiful women's lycra swimsuits cost from $ 100 (5700 R).
At the height of the day, I ride in long-sleeved lycra, smear my face with zinc paste, and my feet with SPF 50 sunscreen
If you have your own board, then you will need more accessories and supplies:
- Fins - $ 70 (4000 R).
- Lish (a rope that is attached to the leg) - $ 50 (2850 R).
- Case - $ 30 (1700 R).
- Wax - $ 3 (170 R) for a package that lasts for 2 weeks.
I buy health insurance without a mark on extreme sports, because in Indonesia they do not ask about the cause of the injury. You can say that you just swam or fell. I do this for reasons of economy, since I have to buy insurance for the whole year. If you fly on vacation for 2-3 weeks, it is better to be safe and buy insurance with surf coverage.
on average, sports insurance costs for two weeks
Two-week sports insurance in Bali will cost 2,500-3,000 rubles.
Two-week sports insurance in Bali
If you regularly ride on your own, it is useful to take 1-2 advanced lessons with an instructor once every few months. He will point out errors and help overcome the halt in progress. An advanced lesson is an individual lesson, but costs more, from $ 150 (8550 R).
If the instructor is private and does not work in a surf school, you will have to pay extra for photography. Shooting from the coast costs from $ 50 (2850 R).
on average there is one advanced lesson with an instructor
If you want simply beautiful photographs for memory, and not for the analysis of technology, you can find a photographer who takes pictures from the water - it costs from $ 100 (5700 R).
Not in bali
Bali is a good place to learn surfing, because the waves are all year round, the water is warm, there are many schools, shops and equipment rental points. But you can learn in other places - wherever there is an ocean. The main thing is to get into the season of waves.
In Asia, in addition to Bali, surfers are popular in Sri Lanka, the Maldives and the Philippines. In the Caribbean - Barbados, Dominican Republic, Mexico. In the US, ride in California and Hawaii. In Europe - in Portugal, France, Spain and the Canary Islands. In Africa, studying is better in Morocco, and experienced surfers who are not afraid of sharks ride in South Africa.
is the wetsuit that surfers need everywhere except the tropics
Prices for one lesson do not differ much:
- Philippines and Sri Lanka - $ 50 (2,850 R)
- Barbados and the Dominican Republic - from $ 60 (3400 R).
- USA - $ 50 (2,850 R).
- Morocco - 40 € (2740 R).
- Portugal - 25 € (1700 R).
Everywhere except the tropics, for surfing you need a wetsuit. In surf schools, wetsuit rental is included in the price of the lesson. Renting a wetsuit for self-driving in Europe costs 10 € (685 R). Prices for new wetsuits are dependent on thickness. For example, to ride in water +17 ° C, you need a 4 mm wetsuit. In Moscow, prices for such start from 11 000 R.
To enjoy surfing in cold water, it’s crucial to choose a wetsuit of the right size and thickness.
Learning to surf with an instructor is faster, safer and more effective than on your own.
But with the instructor to study for a long time, especially with interruptions. If you have the opportunity to spend at the ocean only two weeks twice a year, get ready that you will have to take lessons at school every time for the first 2-3 years. If you are ready to ride on your own earlier, you will feel it.
Where to study
There are three main training options: a trip to the surf camp, where everything is included - from accommodation to daily classes, individual lessons with a private instructor and a course at the surf school.
The basic rule is not to focus on the "stardom" of the instructor, but to choose someone who readily explains the theoretical part and knows how to find an approach to students during practical classes.
Surf Camp is a complete immersion in the world of surfing with breaks for excursions and parties. Pros: no need to take care of anything and try to combine relaxation with lessons, everything is already thought out for you. Minuses: with high probability you will live, study and hang out with the same people.
If this option is not to your liking, you can find accommodation on your own and pay for group or individual lessons at a surf school. Pros: Most schools provide students with boards and equipment. Minuses: not all schools have a transfer service from the hotel to the beach.
The third option is to find a private instructor on the spot. Pros: low cost of lessons. Minuses: lack of guarantees of your safety on the water.
Elena Shevchuk, surf coach:
“At the initial stage, almost all schools provide more or less the same training. Read reviews about the school and instructors, find out what instructors have experience and approach to training. Ask what friends or acquaintances recommend. ”
Where and when to go
From March to November - Brazil, Greece (all islands in the Aegean Sea, the island of Karpathos is especially good for beginners).
From November to April - Mauritius, Sri Lanka.
All year round - Mexico, Australia, Dominican Republic, the southern coast of Portugal, Sicily and Sardinia.
It is better for beginners to go to Bali from December to March, when the water is as warm as possible and there are rarely big waves.
In Morocco - from late May to October.
“It cannot be said that somewhere is better or worse, it will be a completely subjective opinion. Globally, you can divide the whole world of surfing into “warm water” and “not warm water”. If you are a fan of the first option and want to ride in a T-shirt and shorts, then most likely you will like Southeast Asia, perhaps Sri Lanka. The last direction I would recommend to beginners at the very first stage, there are soft waves and the most comfortable conditions in order to start training.
If you do not want to spend time and money on a long flight, pay attention to Portugal, France, Morocco. Не ошибитесь с выбором сезона: практически везде, где есть волны, существует зависимость от сезона штормов. Есть определенное время года, когда волны будут сильнее и больше (Атлантика этому особенно подвержена), и есть сезон, когда волны будут небольшими и наиболее подойдут для обучения».
Сколько времени уйдет на обучение
«В серфинге прогресс идет не быстро. Это спорт, который требует многих часов практики и нахождения в океане. One of the components of surfing is the ability to understand the ocean, choose waves, and be among waves and people.
Your initial physical form will be a determining factor in how fast progress will go. Forget the feeling of shame and awkwardness. Despite the fact that we never ride alone, surfing is such a one-man sport. There is a board, an ocean and waves. The more waves you catch in the first stage, the better. Therefore, go where you can catch 20-25 waves in two hours in the water. If you ride for two hours and haven’t caught a single one during that time, you probably just chose the wrong place. ”
Injuries and pitfalls
“The most common injuries for beginners are sprains and bruises from the boards. The pros have their backs, less often their knees. ”
Evgeny Kadlubinsky, sports doctor:
“Surfing is not the most traumatic sport compared to, for example, skiing or snowboarding, but old injuries may aggravate during skiing. Therefore, before you start actively surfing, it is necessary to stabilize chronic diseases. This is especially true for those who have already had dislocations of the shoulder joint, hernia of the lumbar spine and neck, trauma and disease of the knee joint. "There is a high risk that these problems will make themselves felt as soon as you start surfing."
Important! Get sports insurance. Surfing is a relatively safe sport, do not rely on the event, especially if you are traveling to a foreign country. If you have poor eyesight, it is worth remembering that surfing with glasses will not work, and lenses can be washed off.