Installation and dismantling of LG, Panasonic or other brands of air conditioners are not easy tasks requiring special skills. It is no coincidence that professionals perform this procedure, and its cost is quite high. Nevertheless, you can remove the air conditioner in case of emergency by yourself, if you know and follow the correct procedure, as well as have the necessary tools. About all stages of the process step by step, as well as about the features of winter dismantling and the nuances for split systems of different brands - in the material below.
When to remove the split system is not necessary
In some cases, the dismantling of the split system does not need to be performed, for example, during cosmetic repairs. To glue wallpaper completely remove the air conditioner is not necessary - just unfasten the latches, remove the indoor unit from the mounting plate, unscrew it, stick the wallpaper, and then return the technique to its place.
On a note! If the house is being renovated and plastering, leveling, lining or other actions with walls will be carried out, it is not necessary to dismantle both blocks - it is enough to disconnect only the inside. The length of the route should be enough for the subsequent installation of the node.
If the air conditioner is broken and cannot be repaired, it is very easy to dismantle it, since there is no need to observe safety precautions and preserve freon, as well as the integrity of vital components. With working equipment you need to act differently. It is impossible to allow not only dust but also air to enter the system, otherwise, after installation and subsequent start-up of the device in a new place, it will almost certainly be damaged. Also, when dismantling a split system, it is important save freonso that you don’t need to download it again, since this service will cost a lot.
Advice! During dismantling, you must carefully work with the wires. When disconnecting them, it is recommended to photograph the connections or make notes. Incorrect connection can lead to equipment failure.
Only if the owner of the climate equipment is sure that he will be able to correctly fulfill the above conditions, you can proceed to dismantle the air conditioner on your own.
Dismantling step by step
The need to remove the air conditioner may arise for several reasons: when moving to another housing, during repair in an apartment, to eliminate breakdowns in the equipment itself, etc. Depending on the situation, it may be necessary to completely or partially dismantle the split system. How to remove only the indoor unit from the wall was discussed above, and for the complete dismantling of the equipment, you must adhere to the following algorithm:
- carry out preparatory work
- lower freon
- disconnect and dismantle the outdoor unit,
- disconnect the compressor (if necessary),
- remove the indoor unit.
All actions must be performed with care and according to the instructions so as not to damage the air conditioner.
Preparatory work includes the collection of necessary tools, among which professional ones will be needed. So, the master should have:
- a set of slotted and nut screwdrivers,
- a set of hex wrenches,
- manometer station
- pipe cutter and side cutter,
- knife for construction work,
- set of open-end wrenches and adjustable spanners,
Important! If the removal of the outdoor unit is carried out at a considerable height, safety equipment will be required.
Before carrying out the dismantling of the air conditioner, it will be necessary to lower the freon. If you plan to reinstall the device to another location, this procedure must be performed so that collect refrigerant in the outdoor unit. There are two ways to solve this problem: the first - using a pressure gauge, the second - through a pumping station and collecting refrigerant, which is connected to a cylinder with two valves. The device used in the latter case is equipped with its own pressure gauge and compressor, which allows pumping out freon in liquid or gaseous form.
First way easier, but it is used only if it is possible to start the device. Then the movement of freon to the outdoor unit is performed using its own compressor.
Second method more complicated, requires skills, and renting such a station is very expensive. Its advantage is that it is possible to pump out freon even in winter, when the start of equipment is not permissible. In addition, the outdoor unit is evacuated, and there is no refrigerant remaining in the condenser, which is safer when transporting the device.
To assemble freon in the outdoor unit of the air conditioner with a pressure gauge, you need to find on it two fittings with thin and thick tubes. The first is used to transfer liquid refrigerant to the evaporator from a condenser. The second is necessary to pump freon into the condenser in gaseous form. At each of the fittings, the heads of the shutoff valves are closed with lids, while the gas one is equipped with an outlet with a nipple. Next, to collect the refrigerant in the outdoor unit, you must perform the following actions:
- remove the protective caps from the nipple and fittings,
- connect the pressure gauge to the nipple,
- run the split system for maximum cooling,
- after a few minutes block the flow of refrigerant to the evaporator,
- observe the pressure gauge.
When the value appears on the device "-1 MPa" it is necessary to shut off the gas fitting hexagon and immediately turn off the split system. Do not allow her to work for a long time in idle mode, this may result in compressor failure. That is why it is recommended that you work with an assistant, and not yourself - quickly get to the split system to disable it, not everyone will succeed.
On a note! A value of “-1 MPa” indicates that the refrigerant is collected in the condenser, and a technical vacuum has formed in the remaining nodes.
Outdoor unit removal
After lowering the refrigerant, proceed to dismantle the units. But before that, you need to disconnect the tubes, for which you can use one of two methods.
First method - unscrew the nuts with which the tubes are screwed to the fittings. In their place special covers are put on. So the tubes will remain intact, but with this procedure, air is likely to be inside the compressor.
Second method - To deviate from the fittings about 15 cm of the tube and cut off with side cutters. Then the edges must be bent and clamped with a vise. With this method, a replacement of the track will be required, but the procedure itself is fast, which means that air with dust is less likely to penetrate the compressor. Similarly, cut and pinch the tube near the indoor unit to protect the evaporator.
Further from the external unit follows disconnect signal and power wires. After that, you can unscrew the retaining fasteners and remove the unit from the bracket.
Sometimes the external unit is removed to repair the compressor. Then the dismantling actions look different - the refrigerant is completely removed from the system. To dispense with the loss of freon, it is pumped into the tank using a special station, and in summer it can be released into the atmosphere.
On a note! When dismantling the compressor, it is not necessary to clamp the tubes or close the valves with covers, because after installing a new efficient compressor, the outdoor unit is vacuumized with a special pump.
Compressor replacement work recommended to entrust to specialists, since for their carrying out it is necessary to have a large number of professional equipment: a vacuum pump, a manometer, a gas burner. If the user wants to perform these actions independently, you should:
- remove the protective cover from the external unit,
- using a gas burner, disconnect the nozzles of the discharge and suction tubes,
- disconnect the electric cable,
- unscrew and remove the fasteners holding the fan and condenser,
- take out the capacitor
- remove the fasteners and dismantle the compressor.
Now you can remove the pulley from the compressor or perform other work. Installing a new compressor performed in reverse order.
Removing the indoor unit
To dismantle the indoor unit, you will need:
- pull out the protective plugs according to the instructions, unscrew the fasteners, remove the housing cover,
- disconnect the power cable, disconnect it from the terminals, pull it out of the air conditioner,
- remove the drain pipe and replace the container to drain the remaining liquid,
- cut, bend and clamp the copper tubes, as on the external unit,
- snap off the fasteners and remove the unit from the mounting plate,
- Remove the screws that secure the plate to the wall and remove it.
How to remove the air conditioner
There are three prerequisites to remove the air conditioner yourself:
- The outdoor unit should be within reach. If it stands on the facade of an apartment building above the level of the second floor, then it can only be dismantled from a window or from a balcony. Otherwise, you need to attract specialists in industrial mountaineering.
- To remove heavy blocks from the wall and properly turn off the compressor, you need at least one assistant.
- It is necessary to rent a gauge station specifically for the type of freon that is pumped into this model of air conditioner.
Note. The last paragraph concerns stations with conventional (gauge) gauges. Digital collectors are tuned to the brand of refrigerant.
Features of the process in winter
Most modern split systems work both in summer and winter. They can be used for space heating or for cooling, for example, server rooms. You need to know that you can collect freon only by running the air conditioner in cooling mode. The complexity of work in the cold season is that there is a lower temperature thresholdat which the split system is functioning properly. Such limitations are explained by the operation of the compressor in oil, which tends to change its consistency and become dense at low air temperature.
On a note! For ordinary air conditioners, the lower threshold is set between + 5 ° С and -5 ° С, for inverters - up to - 15 ° С or lower (maximum value -25 ° С).
In this regard, when dismantling equipment, it is necessary to take into account the air temperature in the street. In winter, if the “winter kit” (heating compressor case) is not installed on the split system, for the maintenance of freon need to use a special stationsince it uses an oil-free compressor.
If the air conditioner is out of order and cannot be repaired, then it is easy to remove it - there is no need to preserve freon, the tightness of the compressor, condenser and evaporator is not important.
This is not the case with a working air conditioner. And in this case, the main thing is that dust and even air do not get into the system. Otherwise, we can talk about the guaranteed compressor output after installing and starting the air conditioner in a new place. The reason is a feature of the vacuum pump device.
Freon is extremely fluid, and the temperature difference at the inlet and outlet reaches several tens of degrees. No seals and rings used in conventional pumps and compressors can withstand such operating conditions. The necessary tightness is achieved due to the extremely accurate fit of the surface of the moving pump elements to the internal geometry of the chambers. The slightest scratch by a solid particle leads to the failure of the compressor. And such a particle may also be a grain of ice formed during the freezing of moisture in the air that has got inside.
That is why new air conditioners are sold filled with inert gas, which is pumped out with a vacuum pump before freon is injected.
When the air conditioner is removed independently, freon must be pumped out, and the blocks should be disconnected. This must be done so that dust and air do not enter the system. That is, to create a vacuum there. And it is advisable to keep Freon completely (or most of it), so that in a new place it is easier to bring the system into working condition.
To properly remove the air conditioner, from a professional equipment you only need a gauge station, which can be rented.
Each home master has the remaining tools:
- set of wrenches and hex wrenches,
- pipe cutter or side cutter,
- manual bench vise,
Freon collection in the external block
On the side on the case of the outdoor unit there are two fittings from which the tubes extend:
- thin - for transporting liquid freon from the condenser to the evaporator,
- thick - for pumping gaseous freon into the condenser.
Both fittings have cover valve heads under the covers. An outlet with a nipple departs from the gas head.
The collection of freon in the capacitor takes place in the following order:
- Protective covers are removed from the fittings and nipple.
- A collector is connected to the nipple.
- Turn on the air conditioner for maximum “cold”.
- After a few minutes, the valve of the liquid fitting is closed, stopping the supply of freon to the evaporator.
- The pressure is monitored by a pressure gauge.
- When the arrow shows “-1 MPa”, tighten the valve of the gas fitting with a hexagon and immediately turn off the air conditioner (for which you need an assistant) - with prolonged idle operation, the compressor pump may fail.
The pressure gauge "-1 MPa" means that all the freon in the condenser, and inside the evaporator, in the tubes and in the compressor - technical vacuum.
After that, you can disconnect the blocks.
Dismantling the air conditioner in steps
Dismantling while maintaining the health of the dismantled air conditioner is as follows:
- sealing pipe fittings,
- shutdown and dismantle from the facade of the external unit,
- dismantling in the apartment of the indoor unit.
Below is an instruction for dismantling the wall air conditioner.
To remove the outdoor unit of the air conditioner, first disconnect the tubes.
There are two ways:
- Unscrew the union nuts, which press against the flanges of the fittings of the outdoor unit to the flared edges of the tubes. And pre-prepared covers are screwed into place of nuts. Dignity - the tubes remain intact. The disadvantage is that there is a high risk of air entering the compressor.
- Copper tubes are cut with side cutters (from the nozzle about 15 cm). Bend the edges and clamp (chuck) with a vise. The disadvantage is that pipes must be installed in a new place. Advantage - the operation is quick and the likelihood of dust and air getting inside is much lower.
Note. The other cut edge of the tube must also be chased to protect the evaporator of the indoor unit.
The next step is to disconnect the cables (signal and power), remove the fastenings of the unit to the frame on the outer wall and lift it into the room.
One of the situations when you need to remove the outdoor unit may be replacing the air conditioning compressor. And in this case, the dismantling algorithm is slightly different. The differences are as follows:
- Freon must be completely removed from the system. The correct way is to collect it in a cylinder using a freon pumping station. It is wrong, but simple - to release it into the atmosphere (if the compressor is replaced in the warm season and the air temperature is higher than the boiling point of freon at normal pressure).
- There is no need to caulk tubes - after installing a new compressor, the system is "pumped out" by an external vacuum pump.
It is impossible for a layman to replace the air conditioning compressor on their own. In addition to the vacuum pump and manometer station, it is necessary to have a gas burner to disconnect the suction and exhaust pipes of the old compressor from the system, and then solder the new unit to the system. And even if you rent equipment, you must have the skills to handle it.
You can remove the unit yourself, but to replace the compressor it is better to invite a professional.
Most household split systems have a wall-mounted indoor unit (although there are other placement options). But with the exception of the channel air conditioner, the remaining types are dismantled according to the general principle.
To remove the indoor wall unit, proceed as follows:
- remove the housing cover,
- disconnect cables and wires,
- cut and choke copper tubes that go to the evaporator of the indoor unit,
- cut off the drain pipe, drain the condensate,
- “Snap out” the latches of the housing to the mounting plate,
- remove the block and unscrew the plate from the wall.
Air conditioning can work in the winter. And not only as a heater, but also in cooling mode (for example, in rooms where there are servers).
Note. Freon can only be collected in the condenser of the outdoor unit when operating in cooling mode - in heating mode it already works as an evaporator.
The peculiarity of working in winter in this mode is that there is a lower temperature limit, which is affected by the type of refrigerant, type of air conditioner and additional equipment. This dependence is still associated with the features of the compressor device - it is oily and the oil thickens at low temperatures. For ordinary air conditioners, the lower operating temperature ranges from + 5 ° C to -5 ° C, for inverter air conditioners - to “minus” 15–25 ° C.
Before dismantling a split system, these nuances must be taken into account.And if the temperature is below the specified limit, and the air conditioner is not equipped with a “winter kit” with heating the compressor crankcase, then to remove the outdoor unit, you need to use the pumping and collecting Freon station (it has an oil-free compressor).
About the methods and difficulties of dismantling with your own hands
As a rule, owners of private houses and apartments install 2 varieties of air conditioners - monoblock (mobile) and split systems. There are no special problems with the first ones, since in such models all the main elements are enclosed in a single case, and to move the unit, it is enough to simply disconnect the air duct.
Dismantling the mobile version consists in disconnecting the duct
In addition to monoblocks and “splits”, there are other varieties of climatic installations - cassette, duct and column. But usually such equipment is installed in offices, shopping centers and other large-area premises; it is rarely used in private homes.
The split system consists of two sections located inside and outside the home. They are interconnected by two highways, through which refrigerant - freon circulates in various aggregate states. Through a copper tube of small diameter, it flows in the form of a liquid from an external unit into an internal one. Along a large-diameter line, gaseous refrigerant moves in the opposite direction. This raises a number of difficulties awaiting the ignorant user when trying to independently dismantle:
- Full or partial loss of freon as a result of unqualified disconnection of trunk pipelines.
- Moisture-containing air in tubes and heat exchangers. If the split system is installed incorrectly in another place, incompressible moisture will enter the compressor and may cause harm to it.
- Clogged copper tubes when pulling them from the wall and during transportation. Moisture or sand in the freon circuit is a quick “death” of the compressor.
- When disconnecting the trunk from the nozzles of the inner section, you can accidentally collapse the threaded sleeves soldered to them.
- Disconnecting the power wires without marks on the terminals where they were connected leads to confusion during re-installation.
- Too short a cut-off of the drain pipe leading to condensate.
- Loss during transportation of cogs and other small parts that are not fixed after dismantling.
Split system consists of two sections and communications between them
Most of these cases lead to expensive repairs of your air conditioner in a specialized workshop, so before removing the split system, you must carefully study the instructions below.
There are three ways to dismantle the indoor and outdoor units:
- simple disassembly with the release of refrigerant into the atmosphere,
- with the preservation of freon in the system according to the "by eye" technique,
- using special equipment that allows you to completely save the refrigerant in the circuit.
The last method gives the best result, although in certain circumstances all three apply. So that you do not have problems with installing the removed air conditioner and its further operation, it is recommended that you proceed with the third option, having previously familiarized yourself with the method of saving freon.
First of all, you need to prepare such a set of tools and devices:
- Phillips and flat head screwdrivers
- set of open-end wrenches,
- stationery knife,
- hex keys with sizes of 5 ... 10 mm,
- pressure gauge or pressure gauge with tube and threaded connection, designed for a maximum pressure of 10-15 Bar,
- masking tape and marker,
- insulation tape or ordinary tape.
Manifold manifold for 1 valve
A manometric manifold will definitely be needed if you plan to mount the split system in another room, so it is better to rent it, and it will be too expensive to buy.
Hex keys are needed to rotate the service port valves
Also, for convenient and safe work, a stepladder is needed to calmly get to the indoor module installed under the ceiling. The outer section, located on the wall of the apartment building, is better to pull through the window, previously tied with a rope. The services of an assistant will be useful here.
Service ports are located on the side panel of the outdoor unit.
An important stage of preparation is to ensure the preservation of the refrigerant with the least loss. For this, the principle of operation of the air conditioner is used, thanks to which all freon can be assembled in one place - the circuit of the outdoor unit. Having prepared the tools, proceed according to the instructions:
- Covering the infrared element with your hand on the remote control, switch the split system to “Turbo” mode and set the minimum temperature. Remove your hand from the item and point the remote at the air conditioner. In this way, you start the compressor immediately at full capacity.
- Connect the hose from the pressure gauge to the service fitting located on the side of the outdoor unit, after which it will immediately show the pressure in the system. In some models, these pipes are hidden under the cover, it must be removed.
- Unscrew the 2 nuts - plugs located on the ends of the fittings. Under them, valves are found that are adjustable with an Allen key. Find the right hexagon for your size.
- Turn off the liquid line refrigerant tap (this is a thinner pipe) and monitor the pressure gauge. At this time, the compressor draws in the freon gas through the second tube.
- When the appliance arrow drops to zero and begins to go into the vacuum zone, close the second valve and quickly turn off the air conditioner with the remote control. That's all, the refrigerant in its entirety is in the circuit of the external module.
Pressure gauge attached to a special fitting
In split systems filled with different brands of freon (sometimes R22 and R410), the diameter of the thread of the service fitting, where the pressure gauge is connected, differs. For R410, you need a special adapter, which should be prepared in advance.
The refrigerant is stored according to the “by eye” method without a gauge manifold. After closing the liquid valve, wait about 40-50 seconds, then close the gas valve and turn off the household appliance. The disadvantage is clear: you will not know how much freon managed to get into the outdoor unit, and it is unacceptable to keep a running compressor with a blocked main for a long time. The result will appear during the next installation of the “split” and its launch.
Instructions for removing the external module of the split system
The outdoor unit of the air conditioner must be dismantled when moving or moving it to a new place. To carry out apartment repair, it is not necessary to remove the external section, but you still have to disconnect the freon highways, cable and drainage. Work is carried out in the following order:
- Unscrew the hose of the pressure gauge used when pumping the refrigerant and replace the end nuts - plugs.
- With a wrench, unscrew the union nuts that press the copper tubes to the fittings, bend them to the side. Use adhesive tape or electrical tape to protect all open holes in the mains and pipes of the external module so that debris and dust do not get inside during operation.
- To disconnect the electric cable, disconnect the device from the power supply and remove the cover that covers the terminals (located above the freon valves). Before unscrewing the wires, stick a strip of masking tape over the terminals and sign with a color marker to fix the connection order. Disconnect the conductors and remove the cable.
- Tie off disconnected lines to the bracket of the outdoor unit so that the copper pipes do not hang out and bend, otherwise they will have to be replaced.
- Unscrew the 4 nuts securing the outdoor unit to the bracket, tie it with a rope, and together with the assistant, remove the unit.
It is more convenient to dismantle the external unit from the stepladder
Professional refrigerators often take a slightly different approach: they do not unscrew the union nuts and do not remove the freon tubes from the fittings of the outdoor unit, but bite them off. Then it is not necessary to tape the ends of the pipelines with tape in order to protect them from moisture and debris, because they are flattened by nippers. During subsequent installation, the tapered ends are cut off and flaring is performed under the union with a union nut.
To remove the device from the bracket, unscrew 4 nuts
After disconnecting the cable cores from the terminals, tighten the screws of the contacts and tighten them, as they may fall out and be lost during transportation.
When dismantling from the window of the apartment, the assistant must insure you
The bracket itself is better to remove later when you untie the pipelines of the freon circuit from it. If the mains leave the wall no more than a meter, then they do not need to be tied. Carefully align the tubes so that they are easier to pull in from the inside. The bracket is most often mounted on 4 anchor bolts, unscrewed with a conventional open-end wrench.
How to dismantle the air conditioner indoor unit yourself
To remove the internal module from the wall, it is necessary to disconnect from it all communications - cable, tubes for freon and condensate. The place of twisting of the pipelines is, as a rule, in the niche of the housing arranged in the lower part. Depending on the model of the split system, there are 2 ways to get to this niche:
- Unlock 3-4 plastic latches securing the bottom of the unit to the mounting plate. To reject the bottom of the case from the wall and insert any rod between them, remove the communications harness from the niche.
- If there are no latches on your split model, then you need to remove the front plastic panel, after dismantling the blinds and additional covers (when they are).
The composition of the internal unit of the split system
When you get to the harness, make a longitudinal cut on it with a clerical knife, which will allow you to move the insulation and grab the nuts with your keys. Do not make a cut too long, otherwise you will have to change the insulation material later. Perform further operations in this order:
- With two open-end wrenches, unscrew the joints of the highways. An important point: the flange soldered to the short tube of the unit itself cannot be rotated, it must be held in place by a wrench, unscrewing the union nut.
- Wrap the ends of pipelines with tape or tape to protect them from dirt.
- Find the junction of the drain pipe with the outlet pipe and disconnect it. Do not cut the corrugation anywhere, so that later it would be more convenient to dock it back.
- Remove the cover of the electrical compartment (located on the right side of the housing or under the front panel), make notes with a marker and scotch tape, then unscrew the screws and disconnect the cable cores. Tighten the screws and tighten the cover.
- When all communications are disconnected, grasp the case on both sides and remove from the mounting plate by lifting it slightly up. Pass the unit to the assistant.
- Remove the mounting plate by unscrewing all the dowels.
Given that condensation may remain in the pallet of the indoor unit, it is advisable to protect the wall with plastic wrap before dismantling. If you rent an air conditioner for apartment renovation, then such a precaution is unnecessary.
Before removing the unit, the electrical compartment cover must be screwed into place
After removing the inner section from the wall, put on it all the unscrewed parts, tighten the screws and put on the mounting plate. Put the protruding nozzles into a niche, fixing with masking tape. Fasten the opening front panel with the same material so that it does not hang during transport.
If the communication harness is short, then it can be removed together with the unit
The last step is to dismantle the communications laid along the wall or inside it. There are no difficulties, the main thing is not to bend the copper tubes under a small radius. From such treatment, the bore is reduced at the bend, and aligning the tube with an oval profile is quite difficult. Pull the tourniquet out of the outer wall carefully so as not to damage the insulation. If the hole was covered with mounting foam, then it must be cut out in parts. At the end, turn the tourniquet into a ring and fasten it with tape.
If the outdoor temperature has dropped to -5 ° C or more, it is recommended to refrain from dismantling for the following reasons:
- it will not be possible to transfer refrigerant to an external module,
- in cold weather, it is impossible to disassemble the connections, unscrew the plugs and close the service ports,
- as a result of disassembly, the seals of service valves often fail.
In a situation where you can’t do without removing the split system at a negative temperature, be sure to warm the fittings of the outdoor unit with a building hairdryer. Then unscrew the plugs and close both valves, thus preserving part of the freon remaining in the circuit of the outdoor unit. Then slowly unscrew the lines from the fittings and disconnect them, releasing the second part of the refrigerant into the atmosphere. Then proceed according to the algorithm described above.
The personnel of specialized firms use gauge stations for pumping out freon in winter. But if you rent such equipment, then dismantling will cost more than the remuneration of specialists, and the result will be dubious.
At temperatures above -5 ° C, you can perform work according to standard instructions, but it is advisable to use a pressure gauge to control the transfer of refrigerant. If you act “by eye”, then you can not guess the exposure time and still lose part of the freon. It is equally dangerous to overexpose the compressor in operation without cooling (and it is cooled by circulating freon), it can fail from overheating.
You will successfully dismantle your home air conditioner if you take up the job during the warm season and follow the instructions given. You can not miss a single trifle, to act very carefully and without haste. Do not neglect the pressure gauge, as the loss of refrigerant will nullify all the savings from this procedure.
Features of the process for different types of air conditioners
The process of dismantling the air conditioner may vary depending on its type. In everyday conditions today are most often used split systems consisting of internal and external unit. The process of their removal was presented above.
The second type of air conditioner for home use is window devices. They consist of one unit, which is mounted in the window or in a special hole in the window, prepared for the technique. In this case, dismantling is very simple: it is enough to remove the device from the seat, having previously removed the retaining fasteners.
In addition, in everyday life are often used mobile air conditioners. These devices do not require installation, and therefore - and subsequent removal.
Other types of air conditioners (channel, cassette, column etc.) are used to cool retail space, industrial halls, etc. Only a group of professionals can handle their dismantling.
Important! Self-service and dismantling of professional climate equipment is not allowed. To carry out any work with this technique, you should contact specialists.
The consequences of incorrect dismantling
Incorrect dismantling of the air conditioner can have a number of unpleasant consequences:
- the cooling circuit will lose its tightness, and / or there will be a leak of freon - fixing this problem will be very expensive,
- particles of dust or water droplets may get inside the circuit, which will negatively affect the operation of the compressor - this is why it is not recommended to remove the split system during rain or snowfall,
- there is a risk of the outdoor unit falling from a height, which will lead to its breakdown and subsequent replacement,
- mechanical damage to one of the blocks or the track can occur, which can lead to depressurization of the case, leakage of refrigerant and moisture and dirt.
Thus, so that freon does not leak out, liquid or dust does not enter the system, and the equipment does not get damaged, you must act as carefully as possible and follow the dismantling rules.
So, despite the fact that it is recommended to entrust the professionals with dismantling the air conditioner, if necessary, this operation can be carried out independently. To do this, you will need to collect or rent a special tool, as well as use the instruction manual, which details all the necessary actions. During work, care must be taken not to damage the equipment. A lot of tutorial videos on this operation are available to help the home master on the Internet, and the process itself is about the same for different brands of equipment.
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